21 January 2014

Biergartenopolis: The Growler, Memphis



The air was heavy with the promise of impending doom, and as the boy looked over the undulating field before him, the still weak but fiery morning sun began to pierce the veil of black storm clouds and he knew at once what he must do. He steeled his resolve, swallowed his fear down deep into his stomach where it burned like hot ash until finally it withered and died and he mounted his steed, now tired and worn by the pursuit. His hands shook as he took the reins and cast an eye back towards his ancient home, then dug his heels into the ashy ribs of his constant companion, striking out into what would surely be his final charge.

Okay, so for serious, it was a sunny Saturday afternoon and I had some errands to run in preparation for a semi-regular rotating dinner some of us have, and it fell to me to pick up the beer and barbeque.

The BBQ was a simple enough choice. In my mind, if you want BBQ in Memphis, the first choice should pretty much always be Central BBQ.

Just is.

Sorry.

There are several other perfectly acceptable BBQ shops in town which will, no doubt, stave away any cravings you may have for the smokey meat treats, but Central will always be my go-to and today's selection of a pork 12 pack, couple pounds of beef brisket, and their awesome home made chips was well loved by the whole group.

Except the vegetarian, who still probably liked the chips and slaw. But we won't fault her that.

Called Central about noon for a 4:00PM pick up, and moved onto the next issue.

Where do I go for the beer?

Memphis has several options for good beer selection in cans or bottles, one of which is the Superlo nearby. However, I have been enjoying the latest craze- and by latest I mean what is just now really getting around to Memphis but a lot of the world has been steeped in for years- that being the good ol' growler.


Grit, grind, and growl... er...

If you are unfamiliar with the growler, the concept is simple- it is typically either a 32oz or 64oz glass jug for purposes of transporting fermented liquids, and said growler gets filled with the beer of your choice from whatever place will fill it for you. In Memphis, this is but a few places, but the list is growing. I have already been to the tap room at Wiseacre, and having several cans of Tiny Bomb and Ananda in the fridge it was time to check out one of the others that I hadn't tried yet.

First option, and really only because of proximity: the filling station in our newly renovated neighborhood Whole Foods. The renovation had just been completed and the store reopened last week, so I was eager to check it out. If you have or have heard complaint of Whole Foods, it is typically that the stores are crowded, the parking lots dangerous due to yoga pants wearing uppity types with entitlement issues jockeying for position, and the general unpleasantness of the clientele. The renovation was, I believe, supposed to take care of some of those, human nature not withstanding.

I am here to tell you that it did not. I don't know what it is about Whole Foods, because a lot of what I have heard about how the company is run has made a positive impression on me, but the store seems to attract self absorbed, fair trade fueled, soulless Infiniti drivers in droves, and very few of them seem to be overly concerned with the individual(s) closest to them, regardless if those individuals happen to be children crossing a parking lot or not. Renovating made for expanded product, more local offerings, and sadly, more room for said patrons.

Don't get me wrong, the new store is very nice, and they have lovely products that I am sure will please even the most discerning grass fed palates, and they have what appeared to be (and smelled like) a very legit BBQ shop inside the store, but when you have to wage fucking vehicular warfare and dominate the opposition, pass the fully staffed but backed up checking aisles, and wade through a sea of sometimes BO enhanced hipsters, middle aged facelifted spiritualists and, well, humans in mass quantities only to discover that only four out of the five taps at the filling station are working, and one of those is a beer that you have in stock at the house, you get discouraged from purchasing very quickly.

In fact, you might even get in your car and drive to a different business altogether.

It happens. Happened to me. True story.

So two options left- the Madison Growler Shop at the Midtown Cash Save Cost Plus Food Outlet or another recently opened establishment, The Growler.

CSCPFO (wow) has always had a very good beer selection, going back to the days when it was a Piggly Wiggly grocery, and they opened the Madison Growler Shop back in December, adding 30 taps of growlery goodness to their arsenal. I ran by there late last month and while it was, indeed, voluminous with options galore, the options at the time (it is my understanding they will rotate) didn't make me grab for the wallet and they seemed to be woefully understaffed for the quantity of patrons they had at the time- again, I think they are looking to fix this soon.

The logical conclusion, then, was to proceed to Cooper and seek out The Growler.




The Growler, located at 921 S Cooper in the ol' Midtown, isn't the first tap room in the area- that distinction goes to Wiseacre- but to my knowledge is the first independent growler filling station in Memphis. The Growler is located in a fairly nondescript little taupe/tan building on the west side of Cooper, between Young and Central, and is not a huge place- the parking lot in front holds maybe six or eight vehicles. Thankfully I had apparently missed the rush by a few minutes and pulled right in.

I was greeted outside, as it would happen, by a very friendly and professional David, one of the two owners (other owner is Anthony, who is also partner in The Growler in Chattanooga). Pleasant conversation ensued and I discussed with him my plight, leaving details of my disdain for some of his competition and lack of love for humanity out, of course.


 Maybe my favorite clapboard ever

Again, not a huge place, but very functional and has a good flow. When you walk in, you are looking pretty much directly at the wall of taps, with the menu board to your left, and a cooler of various six packs to go immediately adjacent the door. 


The filling station


Quantity and quality


There is something of a set of shelves that serves to separate the filling station/bar from the "lounge" area and also handles the storage of more growlers and a selection of merch...




On the lounge side there is plenty of room to hang out and sip on some pints (though, interestingly, not crack open a growler, due to how laws on consumption on premises, etc, are written) with your favorite people- a couch, a long sort of community table, flat screen TV, and few more bar tables for a couple of folks each...




and more growlers!





While it didn't hurt that I randomly had the place to myself when I got there, David was very friendly and helpful. I had already made up my mind on what the first growler was going to be, the ESB from Memphis's own High Cotton Brewing`, The second, however, was still yet to be selected from one of their 24 taps. I had a group of roughly ten folks and while I wasn't certain what to get that would sit well with the majority of the group, I knew we were doing BBQ and not many were fans of stouts, so I wanted something a little easier drinking. David let me sample a few different beers (high marks to Memphis Made's coffee stout, Reverberation - should have gotten it to challenge the group a little more) and while I would have rather grabbed a local we hadn't had before, the final swing landed with Rogue's very good Dead Guy Ale.

Paid the man (no cash, cards only), packed up in the ol' Crosstrek, remembered I had meant to take some pictures, and did the damn thing. I was, sadly, a might rude and did not introduce myself, and upon re-entering the establishment found David to be busy with some customers, so I took the above pics and got on down to the business of groceries, BBQ pick up, etc.

So there you have it. A great, no nonsense yet hospitable place with an awesome selection of beers, room to hang out and a screen to watch the game on, well repping the 901, and soon... to serve food as well! I don't know if they will end up being the first tap room to do it, but I know Wiseacre is not currently serving food, though they do frequently have a food truck or two in the lot during their peak times.

The Growler has a good thing going. If they keep up the high standards and manage to be available as they are - six days a week of operation lends itself well to being able to get by there SOME TIME - they will win handily in my book. Good selection, great service, a quality facility, and (soon) some grub?

Yes, please.



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